THEY'RE JUST TWO HOUSES FULL OF MASTERPIECES...

Galleria Borghese.

Mauritshuis.                 

One is in Rome. The other is in The Hague.

Both were homes to wealthy men of completely different professions who were connoisseurs of fine art.

Who were these men? One was Cardinal Scipione Borghese and the other was Count Johan Maurits of Nassau-Siegen.

Scipione Borghese was a cardinal and nephew of Pope Paul V. Johan Maurits was a military hero and great nephew of William I, Prince of Orange.

Cardinal Borghese, although supposedly a man of God, was not against using foul means to acquire a piece of art that he coveted. Johan Maurits was scorned for perhaps profiting too much off of the slave labor in the sugar fields of the newly-conquered (over Portugal) Dutch colony of Brazil where he had been elected governor-general.

Cardinal Borghese, born into the wealthy Italian Borghese nobility family, was simply given the title of Cardinal by his uncle, Pope Paul V. Johan Maurits, from a successful military family, was related to Dutch royalty.

Cardinal Borghese built a splendid summer home outside of center of Rome. Johan Maurits built a home in The Hague that is considered one of the finest and most perfect examples of Dutch classicist architecture.

Cardinal Borghese spared no expense in building his home to showcase his collection of art, and the opulent decor of his home rivals the collection. However, Johan Mauritis was not attached to his collection and was known to have given away hundreds of prints and sketches, many to the then Kings of Denmark and France.

Now, both homes are world-class art museums.

Galleria Borghese has what most critics describe as the finest collection of Baroque sculpture anywhere. Mauritshuis' collection totals nearly 800 paintings, the oldest part of which are paintings owned in the 18th century by the stadholder, Prince Willem V of Orange-Nassau.

Galleria Borghese has three stunning Bernini sculptures including:

Apollo and Daphne       Photo: Web Gallery of Art                                      The Rape of Prosperina    Photo: Web Gallery of Art

Mauritshuis has three stunning Vermeer masterpieces including:

    Girl With A Pearl Earring                                                                                                       Photo: Web Gallery of Art

Galleria Borghese owns several paintings by Caravaggio such as:

David With the Head of Goliath                                                             Self-Portrait as the Sick Baccus
Photo: Web Gallery of Art                                                                     Photo: Web Gallery of Art


Mauritshuis owns several paintings by Rembrandt such as:

The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Nicholaes Tulp                                                          Self-Portrait (his last)  
Photo: Web Gallery of Art                                             Photo: Web Gallery of Art

NOTE: Neither one of these museums allows you to take photos; thus, I had to "borrow" the pictures of the artworks from the Web Gallery of Art.

TRAVEL PLANNING TIPS:

Only 360 persons are allowed in the Galleria Borghese every 2 hours, so reservations are mandatory. Go to the website http://www.ticketeria.it/ticketeria/borghese-eng.asp and follow the prompts to pre-purchase and print out your reservation confirmation. If you are already in Rome, you can call 0039 06 32810. You may be able to make a reservation on the actual day you want to visit. Tickets are €11.50 plus a €1.00 reservation fee.

TIP:

Absolutely purchase the audioguide for €5.00! It will make the visit that much more rewarding.

ROMA PASS:

Galleria Borghese does accept the Roma Pass. The Roma Pass costs €25 and gives you:

• Free entry to the first 2 visited museums and/or archaeological sites of your choice;
• Reduced ticket prices to all other museums and/or archaeological sites thereafter; and
• Free use of the city's public transport network.

Galleria Borghese is located in the middle of the Villa Borghese gardens, but public transportation options to Galleria Borghese are limited. You can catch Bus 910 from the Termini train station (get off at the PINCIANA/MUSEO BORGHESE stop) or Bus 116 from the Piazza Navona area (get off at the last stop--PORTA PINCIANA). If you are close to missing your reservation time, this might be one time to just take a taxi. The fare should be no more than €10-15 from anywhere in Rome.

AMSTERDAM'S MUSEUM PASS:

If you have purchased the MuseumPass, you can use the pass to enter the Mauritshuis. You only have to pay an extra €1.50.

TAKE THE TRAM TO MAURITSHUIS FROM DEN HAAG TRAIN STATION

Once you arrive at the Den Haag train station, walk out to the street to the Tram platform. Take Tram #16 (Destination: Wateringen) to the Buitenhof Stop (the second stop). Remember to use the terrific Netherlands travel planning website http://journeyplanner.9292.nl/ or the other website I have just discovered:

http://www.htm.net/Pages/DEF/245.html which gives you an interactive map of all the tram lines in Den Haag.

You can use your strippenkaart strips for the tram ride.

NOTE: I went to the Netherlands in May and used strippenkaarts for public transportation. I have just read on the http://www.denhaag.nl/ website that the strippenkaarts are being discontinued at the end of 2009. Obviously they have extended the use of strippenkaarts into 2010, so strippenkaarts are my suggested method of transportation expense in the Netherlands--so easy to purchase and use).

Exiting the tram, you will have to walk back down the street (Lange Vijverberg) in the direction you came from until you reach the opposite end of the Hofvijver, the rectangular pond located in front of the government buildings. At the end of the Hofvijver, turn right down Korte Vijverberg which will lead you to the Mauritshuis.



The government buildings facing the Hofvijver.  Down the street to the left of this photo is Mauritshuis.

 

TIP:

I have put a link to the Mauritshuis in my sidebar. However, the Galleria Borghese's website has been redflagged as a possible harmful site, so at this time you cannot access the site except at your own risk.

BERNINI'S RIVAL

Walking around Rome, it's impossible to miss the architectural impact that Gian Lorenzo Bernini made in designing the way Rome looks today, even 400 years after his death in 1680. However, there was another man who made major contributions during his lifetime to the design of Rome. He was a contemporary of Bernini, but also his chief rival and adversary. His brilliance, overshadowed by Bernini's successes at that time, was truly underappreciated, but take the time to marvel at a two of his masterpieces during your visit to Rome. By the way, the man was Francesco Borromini.

Leaving Hotel Aberdeen (my preferred hotel in Rome) walk up Via Firenze to Via 20 Settembre. Just down the street to the right is Bernini's sculpture, The Ecstasy of St. Theresa in Santa Maria della Vittoria. But this time, turn left and walk down Via 20 Settembre to Via delle Quattro Fontane (in a niche on each street corner is a carved fountain, hence the name Quattro Fontane--four fountains). Here you will find Borromini's first independent commission and a masterpiece of Baroque architecture, San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane.

Step inside. Look around. See how small the church is--just ten to fifteen rows of pews on either side of the center aisle, the altar just steps from the entry door. The church is so small it would probably fit inside one of the chapels of St. Peter's Basilica. The color white dominates. The walls are stark white with 16 tall columns and niches built into the walls between the columns, some filled with statuary, others empty. The coffering in the niches mimics the eye-trickery on the dome: the squares and sculpted flowers in them are smaller at the bottom to give the illusion of a deeper niche. There are no primary colors except in the altar paintings and floor design. Notice the shape of the church. Because he was constrained by the building space, Borromini designed the church in a unique elliptical or oval shape.

Photo © Mary Ann Sullivan 

Look up. Gaze at the dome ceiling. Study the detailing. The coffered ceiling's design of hexagons, octagons and crosses is meticulously formed to resemble a jigsaw puzzle. Higher up the shapes get smaller, giving the dome the illusion of even greater height. There are very few windows in this church's design. The majority of the light into the church comes from either the dome lantern or the strategically-hidden windows at the base of the dome.

Borromini's second masterpiece is located halfway between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. Through a courtyard off of Corsa dei Rinascimento, is Sant'Ivo, the church of the University of Rome, La Sapienza.

Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza,Rome  Photos: © Photo by Mary Ann Sullivan   

                                                                                                                                                       

As with San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, Borromini used geometrical thinking to form the design of Sant'Ivo. For San Carlo, he set two equilateral triangles back-to-back to form the initial diamond, then elliptical shape. For Sant' Ivo, Borromini set one triangle on top of the other to form a six-pointed Star of David. As with San Carlo, Borromini also designed the walls of the church with the same convex-concave features--parts jutting out, parts pushing in. And another similarity is the domination of white, here even more than at San Carlo (well, this church is in the shape of a snowflake...).  And one last identical feature to San Carlo: a dome designed to make your jaw drop.

Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza, Rome                
Photo: ©: Wikimedia Commons                                                                                       

The shape of the dome mimics the shape of the church with six points--three pointed, three rounded--each with a small window built in to emit light. Intricately-designed stucco pediments top each of the paned windows. Each of the six ribs is decorated with vertical lines of eight-pointed stars on each side and lead the eye up to the carved angels and the eight-pointed stars which encircled the lantern. This dome is simply breathtaking in its beauty and design.  So, quando sei in Roma (when you are in Rome), admire the magnificence of Bernini, but don't forget what Borromini also did for Rome. Between these two churches I'm not sure which is more beautiful. Judge for yourself.

ART IN SITU

Caravaggio. Bernini. Michelangelo. Rubens.

All world-renown artists. I have admired their works in the permanent collections of the major museums of Europe, but most paintings and sculptures are bought by the museum or donated by a patron. These works were not created for the specific purpose of hanging in the museum. However, are you aware these four artists painted and sculpted extraordinary works of art specifically for churches? The churches of Rome are a virtual cornucopia of art by these artists to be seen without the entry fees, queues or security checks.

Crazy for the chiaroscuro of Caravaggio? Plan a walk through Rome. Start in Piazza del Popolo. Stop in Santa Maria del Popolo to see his Crucifixion of St. Peter and The Conversion on the Way to Damascus in the Cerasi Chapel.

Crucifixion of Saint Peter (1600), Santa Maria del Popolo, Rome © Web Gallery of Art

Conversion on the Way to Damascus (1601) Santa Maria del Popolo, Rome © Web Gallery of Art

 

What art lover wouldn't love walking into a church to view Caravaggio masterpieces for free?

Afterwards, make your way down Via Ripetta to Via della Scrofa. This will lead you to the Basilica di Sant'Agostino to see his Madonna of Loreto...

Madonna of Loreto, Basilica de Sant'Agostino, Rome. © Wikipedia

 

My photo (sorry for the poor quality; I was just learning church photography):

Leave this church, walk back down Via della Scrofa. Just down the street in the church of San Luigi dei Francesi in the Contarelli Chapel, you will see three of his most famous paintings:

The Calling of St Matthew, San Luigi dei Francesi, Rome © Web Gallery of Art

My photo (sorry for the poor quality; I was just learning church photography): 

The Martyrdom of St Matthew, San Luigi dei Francesi, Rome © Web Gallery of Art

My photo (sorry for the poor quality; I was just learning church photography):

The Martyrdom of St Matthew, San Luigi dei Francesi, Rome © Web Gallery of Art

My photo (sorry for the poor quality; I was just learning church photography):

TIP:  Keep €1.00 and €.50 coins in your pocket specifically for those light boxes.  In some cases, it's essential to "light" the art work in order to properly see it.  It will be a few well-spent Euros. 

Besotted by Bernini?  You've taken the obligatory photos of the Spanish Steps and filled your water bottle in the boat-shaped Fontana della Barcaccia. 

Fontana della Barcaccia (said to be designed by Bernini's father, Pietro)

in front of the Spanish Steps in Rome.  Don't be afraid to drink the water!

TIP:  Don't be afraid to drink the water from this fountain or the Signor Nasosi (the "big nose" water faucets in the streets and piazzas). All of Rome’s fountains are aqueduct-powered. It is completely safe to fill your water bottle directly from the faucets--it's probably safer than what you drink at home!

From the Spanish Steps walk south on Via Propaganda. At the intersection of Via di Capo le Case you will see the church of Sant'Andrea delle Fratte.  Inside, on either side of the altar, are two angels sculpted by Bernini in 1668 and 1669 that were originally intended to decorate the Ponte Sant'Angelo, but Pope Clement IX opposed the project, feeling the statues too important to be left exposed to the elements, so they remained in the artist's studio and were eventually donated to the church by Bernini's nephew. Like the ones on the bridge, these angels carry symbols of the Passion: the Scroll and the Crown of Thorns.
Angel with the Scroll, Sant'Andrea delle Fratte, Rome © tesoridiroma.net

My photo (sorry for the poor quality; I was just learning church photography):

Angel with the Crown of Thorns, Sant'Andrea delle Fratte, Rome © Web Gallery of Art

 My photo (sorry for the poor quality; I was just learning church photography):

All guidebooks describe in length Bernini's masterpiece, The Ecstasy of St. Theresa which is located in Santa Maria della Vittoria. And they're correct in stating that this piece of art should not be missed. The entire chapel is gorgeous.

The church gained even more popularity after it was mentioned in the bestselling novel Angels & Demons (although in the book, the church is located a couple of blocks away from its actual location.)

Bernini's The Ecstasy of St. Theresa, Santa Maria della Vittoria, Rome.

But few guidebooks mention Bernini's other "Ecstasy" sculpture, Beata Ludovica Albertoni, located in the Trastevere area.  San Francesco a Ripa is a small church situated at the end of Via di San Francesco a Ripa, east of Viale di Trastevere.

Beata Ludovica Albertoni, San Francesco a Ripa, Rome © Wikipedia

TIP: In general, only the major churches in Rome are open between the hours of 13:00 and 16:00 (remember Europeans use the 24-hour clock), but do stay open until 18:00 or 19:00. Plan accordingly!

Mad for Michelangelo?  OK, after a pleasant lunch dining al fresco in Piazza della Rotonda (I wanted to pinch myself as I thought, "I'm in Rome, sitting here eating a melt-in-your-mouth plate of spaghetti and the actual Pantheon is in front of me!), walk around to the left of Pantheon.

I'm eating lunch in Rome, looking right at the Pantheon. Am I dreaming?

In the small Piazza della Minerva is Santa Maria sopra Minerva, Rome's only Gothic-style church (a bit of change from all the Baroque). In this church to the left of the altar is a statue by Michelangelo, Christ Bearing the Cross. Originally Christ was naked, but later the prudish Counter-Reformation censors added the bronze girdle.

Don't miss the little-known sculpture by Bernini on the fifth pier from the entrance, Monument to Maria Raggi.

Monument to Maria Raggi, Santa Maria sopra Minerva, Rome

More marble by Michelangelo?  After eating the breakfast that is included with your room at my preferred accommodation in Rome, the Hotel Aberdeen, catch Bus #84 at the Reppublica Stop (Direction: Piazza Venezia/Campidoglio) for 5 stops to the Cavour/Annabaldi bus stop. Exiting the bus, cross the street and walk up a set of unfortunately steep stairs.  At the top of the stairs will be San Pietro in Vincoli, a small basilica famous for housing Michelangelo's statue of Moses.

The tomb of Pope Julius II, featuring Moses by Michelangelo in San Pietro in Vincolo, Rome.

In 1505, Pope Julius II commissioned Michelangelo to build his tomb, a huge mausoleum for St. Peter's Basilica.  Moses was to be one of the 40 statues encompassing the huge monument.  Michelangelo traveled to Carrara, selecting 100 tons of marble for the project.  However, progress on the project was halted over the years for many reasons: Discord between Pope and artist; Michelangelo was also busy painting some famous ceiling down the road; then Julius II died. For over 30 years Michelangelo worked on the tomb. The only statues Michelangelo actually completed himself are the Moses, Jacob’s wives Rachel (left), and Leah (right).

Want to relish a Rubens in Rome? This morning after breakfast at Hotel Aberdeen, walk down to Via Nazionale. Catch Bus #64 to the Chiesa Nuovo bus stop.

TIP: www.atac.roma.it is the Rome bus website. Type in your bus route number in the "Find Your Bus" space and you'll get a map showing the bus route. Bus routes #40 and #64 travel to the historic center and St. Peter's Square and you can easily catch either from Via Nazionale near Hotel Aberdeen. Want to explore the streets of Trastevere? Catch Bus H from near the Termini Station.  And the cost is so cheap! One ticket costs €1.00 and lasts for 75 minutes. AND DON'T FORGET TO VALIDATE YOUR TICKETS! 

TIP: Every guidebook warns about pickpockets. I have traveled to Europe three times and ridden dozens of buses and Metro trains. I've traveled with my sister, and we are both aged 50+. I've never come close to becoming a victim of a crime. Maybe it's because I work in a major U.S. city and know how to travel without inviting someone's hand into my bag. A few suggestions from me: DON'T carry a bag that doesn't have a zipper--keep the zipper closed and in front of you. If your bag doesn't have a zipper, carry the bag so the flap is facing you; DON'T set your bag on another chair or hang it behind your chair while you're eating--put in on the ground under the table or between your feet; DON'T carry a lot of cash with you--take what you need and leave the remainder in your hotel room (choose to use a moneybelt if you want--I don't.); DON'T engage in conversation with anyone who is trying to sell you something or seems shady--say no and walk away or better yet, just ignore them; DON'T wander into areas that don't seem safe especially if you're traveling solo--exploring the backstreets is one thing, but be sensible about it; If you are approached by a robber asking for your wallet or purse, DON'T hand it to him--DO toss it away from you. Chances are the robber is more interested in your money than you and he will go for it, not you. Then run like hell in the other direction; DON'T yell "Help"--rescuers may be frightened away; DO yell "Fire"--it tends to draw a crowd (But DON'T yell it in a crowded indoor place!); DO pay attention to your surroundings--it's so easy to be become distracted gaping at the wonders of Europe; DO research before you travel--knowing what you're doing and where you are going will help you not look like a totally confused tourist or become a victim of crime. You don't want something bad to ruin your trip.

Exiting Bus #64 pickpocket-free, head over to Santa Maria in Vallicella, also known as Chiesa Nuova. You'll know you've reached the church when you see the small fountain that resembles a tureen.

Inside over the main altar are three early paintings by Peter Paul Rubens: Madonna and Child Adored by Angels in the center; St. Domitilla with St. Nereus and St. Achilleus to the left and St. Gregory the Great with St. Maurua and St. Papia to the right.

Madonna and Child Adored by Angels, Santa Maria in Vallicella, Rome © Web Gallery of Art

St. Domitilla with St. Nereus and St. Achilleus, Santa Maria in Vallicella, Rome © Wikipedia

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St. Gregory the Great with St. Maurua and St. Papia, Santa Maria in Vallicella, Rome © web.tiscali.it

My photo (sorry for the poor quality; I was just learning church photography); however, you can see the three Rubens paintings left, center and right.

I've described nine different churches in this blog post, but there are hundreds of other beautifully decorated places of worship in Rome which contain paintings and sculptures by men whose talents made Rome the spectacular city it is today. There are over 300 churches in the historic area of Rome, so get out there. Don't just concentrate on the "biggies". Some of the most beautiful churches in Rome aren't even listed in a guidebook.

Thank you for visiting,

A Great Europe Trip Planner